God, I Love Paris

We interrupt this Blog Tour for something(s) sweet

2012-02-16T07:35:00.009-05:00

The religeuse from Eric Kayser

A beautiful box of bonbons from Jacques Genin

Three wee macarons from none other than Pierre Hermé

The irresistible display at Ble Sucré...

...La Maison du Chocolat...

...And Pain du Sucré

Tarte tatin!

The famous Mont Blanc at Angelina

Getting full? Well, the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour is nearly over. Just a handful of more stops await you this weekend. In the meantime, a million thanks to everyone who’s been following and participating and maybe feeling hungry for something else.

Linda of Parisien Salon

2012-02-15T08:34:00.001-05:00

If there’s one thing you should have gotten by now, it’s that the Francophile and foodie communities of Paris and beyond are wildly talented and ambitious. Designer bags, fudgy brownies, debut novels, pastel watercolors… what doesn’t this lot from the Blog Tour do?!

Enter Linda Donahue of Parisien Salon. She brings so many great things and talents together with her wonderful online magazine and boutique. I first met this tour de force at a friend’s soirée—one of those lovely gatherings in a Parisian pad overlooking the zinc rooftops, the Eiffel Tower pulsing in the background, wine, cheese and sweets laid on the table in abundance (oh, moments like this, I too ask why I left Paris…). But since we didn’t have time to chat we made a date to meet for tea at Rose Bakery. There, we bonded over our backgrounds in advertising, connections to New York, and, bien sur, our love for the City of Light. Since then, as both she and I ping and pong through Paris, we’ve continued bonding and I’m delighted Parisien Salon is today’s stop on the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour. Merci, Linda!

Lindsey of Lost in Cheeseland

2012-02-14T08:22:00.001-05:00

Lindsey Tramuta. The girl kills me. When I first met her, I understood her to be an uber savvy social media/advertising guru. Fair enough. Then I started taking notice of her killer photographs. Sheer talent. And then, I realized, she can seriously write. And, well, don’t even get me started on her baking skills. Dare I say Lola’s brownies are the best I have ever eaten?? (Sorry, maman!)

Fast forward a year and a half. Now I know Lindsey to be not only a talented woman, but a good friend. She is generous and thoughtful, bright and inquisitive, honest and fun. She was kind enough to take all the photos of me you see peppering this Blog Tour; she’s accommodating enough to fulfill my Lola’s orders when I’m in town; she’s cool enough to hang out in cafes for hours with; and, well, she’s just plain nice. Lindsey, merci for the photos, the inspiration and being part of the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour!

My Vegan Mondays

2012-02-13T22:58:00.001-05:00

After a week that included stuffing my maw at Friedmans, Gotham Bar at the Peninsula, Café Asean, Rye, Maison Premiere, Georgetown Cupcake, Jack’s Wife Freida, Eataly and others, today’s Vegan Monday was more than a little essential. (And we just won’t mention licking the bowl while making chocolate ganache this evening…) Pants... getting... snug...

Morning
Coffee with soy milk
Granola and almond milk

Afternoon
Cannellini bean salad with avocado, roasted tomatoes and zucchini and pumpkin seeds
Banana
Dried cranberries

Evening
Lentil soup
Roll

Carol of Paris Breakfasts

2012-02-13T12:04:00.001-05:00

There are few other people with greater passion for Paris than Carol G of Paris Breakfasts. At regular intervals every year, she (and Bear) journey from New York to the City of Light (as well as London and beyond) just to explore new bakeries, meet new people, and sketch and paint more of her lovely watercolors. Her witty posts are filled with wicked insights and sharp observations—every day is a fun new discovery at Paris Breakfasts.

The first time Carol and I met was nothing short of classic. She invited me to lunch at the very proper restaurant Lassarre, where a British TV company was filming a reality show about apprenticing waiters on their way to becoming proper serveurs. Needless to say, the service was abysmal and the typical two-hour French lunch dragged for at least three. Luckily, Carol has a great sense of humor and we just laughed and we continued laughing at subsequent meetings, such as for tea and sweets Carette and the croissant smackdown. As such a devout Francophile and devotée to all things sweet and pretty, I'm honored that Carol joined the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour.

Helen of Helen Hearts

2012-02-12T21:25:00.002-05:00

Just as her blog’s name implies, Helen is filled with love and affection. It comes across in her posts as much as her pictures as she explores New York City and the occasional foreign destination and shares the fashion, food, art and design that she hearts.

Big whoop, right?

Except that Helen is just a youngin’. Not even a year out of New York University, she’s already building a successful marketing career at the world’s largest beauty company, L'Oreal, while eating up the city’s best restaurants, parties and events. At 22, she’s already successful and worldly and is proof that we don’t have to weep for the next generation. Keep up the inspiration, Helen, and merci bien for being part of the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour!

Erin of Butter + Brass

2012-02-11T09:06:00.003-05:00

I have a confession: I have a girl crush on Erin. No, I’ve never even met her in person but I’ve been following her blog for years and we’ve been corresponding along the way and I just know we’d be fast friends if we lived in the same town.

Erin is uber talented (check out her design, for god's sake!), inspired and engaged—all you have to do is look at the artists and photographers she curates, the beautiful life moments she captures, and the fashion she shares (oh, the fashion!) on Butter + Brass and beyond. The girl is just cool. She has a sweet soul, stylish sensibility, and thoughtfulness gushes from every word she lays down. Personally, I love having girl crushes, and I’m thrilled that Erin is part of the Paris, My Sweet Blog Tour. Merci, Erin!

Richard of I Prefer Paris

2012-02-09T08:07:00.001-05:00

Richard was actually the first blogger I ever met in Paris. He emailed me, after having stumbled upon my fledgling blog just a few short months after I landed in Paris, and, boy, did I feel like I had made it. This popular blogger, whose site I had already referenced a million times, was emailing me? And wanted to meet for coffee? Woah.

So we met. And bonded over our shared histories in New York, our passions for Paris, the ins and outs of freelance writing, and myriad other juicy bits. I later took one of his cooking courses, met him for dinners, and attended readings and soirées together. Alors! I’m not only happy that Richard’s participating in the Paris, My Sweet blog tour, but that it’s during his annual Sweet Week.

He's hanging in there

2012-02-08T22:05:00.002-05:00

Every once in awhile, someone emails to ask how Milo is doing. I think he pines for his Parisian window perch, but otherwise, he's doing just fine.

Sion of paris(imperfect)

2012-02-08T08:23:00.002-05:00

Still waters run deep. That’s what I have always felt about Sion. She’s never the most boisterous at a gathering (unless she’s laughing – she has a kickass, contagious laugh). She’s always calm and collected. But once she’s engaged in conversation, she’s absolutely radiant. Sion is quick with a smile; she’s warm, thoughtful and sincere; and then there are her creative talents. Have you ever read her poems or essays? The girl is brilliant. I admire and envy the complexity, depth and intelligence that ignite her internal engine.

As I’ve gotten to know Sion, it all makes total sense. Not only is she a fellow Scorpio (!), but when she explains how she’s feeling, or where her head is, it’s always a place and a feeling that I get. Places and feelings that I’ve also had. And she shares them so articulately and honestly in her blog. So it’s for that and many other warm and fuzzy personal reasons that I’m honored to have Sion on the Blog Tour!

Kate of La Petite Choue

2012-02-07T07:11:00.002-05:00

Let’s just start with the name: La Petite Choue. Cute, French and fun. And everything about Kate and her awesome blog is, indeed, cute and fun with a Frenchified twist.

And the brains behind the blog? Kate’s the kind of girl you want dressing you, telling you what to listen to, and what to eat and drink with your friends this weekend. She’s got style, and I’m thrilled to bring the Blog Tour to sunny California to visit her for the day. Hel-lo, Kate!

Kasia of Love in the City of Lights

2012-02-06T08:39:00.001-05:00

Kasia Deitz. I call her “bella” because she really couldn’t be any more beautiful (and I’m not just talking about her enviable bone structure, 100-watt smile, or beautiful, big blue eyes). She is just a warm and lovely person whose inner compassion, creativity (check out her fabulous totes!), curiosity and joie de vivre come shining through. She is an inspiration.

She is also a New Yorker, a world traveler, and worked in advertising before the love of her life stole her away to Paris (from the intersection of Spring and Broadway, no less!). Kasia and I have bonded over many drinks, meals and emails; creative brainstorming sessions and empathetic heart-to-hearts. I can think of no one more appropriate to kick off the Blog Tour. Merci, mon amie!

The Blog Tour

2012-02-05T23:11:00.001-05:00

When I look back on my time in Paris, the evolution of this blog, and the luck and accomplishment of Paris, My Sweet, one thing is clear: from all of it, a whole community of friends was borne. In fact, my second year in Paris, the more I wrote and blogged, and wrote and blogged, the more connected I felt. I met amazing people and had the happy occasion of getting to know a big group of talented, warm, generous, adventurous, fun, diverse, supportive (largely) expats who altered my whole experience—they made it richer, more meaningful, and 10 times better. And, in some cases, the friendships have only deepened since I left. All in all, this blogging business is just another way that my Parisian experience ended up being life-changing. It was magic. And I’m forever grateful.

Starting tomorrow, I’ll be taking Paris, My Sweet on a two-week “Blog Tour.” Every day, I’ll introduce you to one of my favorite bloggers who’s been kind enough to share some thoughts and words about the book. It seemed only appropriate that I use the forum that connected me to so much light and love, camaraderie and conversation, good will and joyful moments in Paris with everyone, everywhere.

To all my Blog Tour participants, thank you in advance—your support and generosity are astounding. And to everyone who comes along on the tour, I hope you enjoy meeting—or reacquainting yourselves—with these most amazing voices!

What a week!

2012-02-03T09:04:00.004-05:00

Weighing in at 280 pages, laden with calories, memories and more than a couple embarrassing moments from my life abroad, my baby, Paris, My Sweet, is finally out in the world!

As well as a feature in the New York Post (!).

There was a double flower delivery… Dinner with friends from different chapters of my life… drinks and nightcaps and bottles… and a million well wishes and sweet thoughts. It was incredible. Thank you, everyone. It's been the best week ever!

Approaching midnight

2012-01-31T23:22:00.002-05:00

It’s here! As of midnight, my baby, Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate), will officially be born!

The past few weeks have been mind-blowingly hectic and I haven’t had proper time to think about this; to anticipate and relish and hold onto the excitement. But today I felt more and more giddy with every hour that passed. There were well wishes and plans coming together and everyone’s pre-ordered copies of the book have shipped. Some of my favorite quotes of the day:

“…If I may be so bold to say if eating sweets has you looking so young, then I will be indulging in desserts every night!” (My super sweet Sourcebooks publicist.)

“Tomorrow is the big day!!! Please wake up and pour yourself a big glass of champagne!” (My ever supportive, boozy and wise friend, Connie.)

It’s definitely going to be an interesting few months. Last week, I read a not so great review, which made me realize I better brace myself for criticism, both fair and bitchy. It just comes with the territory. But mostly, the support and enthusiasm so far has just been so exciting and rewarding that I’m already dying to do all of this again. I'm ready for Book #2!

But, for now, I’m going to try that relishing bit. To stop running around and just absorb and enjoy this moment and accomplishment. In just a couple of hours, my dream will be a proper reality. Amazing. Thank you for being part of this. Merci, mes amis. Bis! Bis! Bis!

Heavenly views

2012-01-31T14:32:00.000-05:00

Look out the window…

… peek off the balcony…

… There’s nothing like sneaking a view in Paris.

(Even Milo agrees.)

My Vegan Mondays

2012-01-30T22:24:00.002-05:00

Boy, do I have a lot to atone for this Monday. About four chocolate chip cookies, four cupcakes, five slices of cake and 80 handfuls of Swedish fish, malt balls, Haribo raspberries and other ridiculous penny candies in 36 hours. What can I say? It was my nephew's sixth birthday this weekend and we all were riding sugar highs. Why stop when you've sunk so low??

Morning
Granola with almond milk

Afternoon
Steamed veggies and fried potatoes
Granola bar
Raisins

Evening
Udon soup with kimchi
Licorice (just a little left over from the weekend's festivities...)

Happy Monday

2012-01-30T09:14:00.001-05:00

Here's to a bright, cheeky, fun and unexpected week!

The cutest restaurant in New York CIty

2012-01-26T23:30:00.008-05:00

It may be rare that I fall head over heels, but when I fall, I fall hard. Like with Buvette.

I've been lamenting the fact that I never go out for dinner the way I used to. For whatever reason(s), since returning from Paris I just don't have the opportunity, occasion or companions the way I once did. I fell for Buvette late last spring and had only had one repeat visit. But this morning, I had the lucky opportunity to have breakfast there. And my love is for real.

Nutella crepes...

They call these tartines, but never have I seen such fluffy-thick-soft bread. And the butter and marmalade on top?! Heaven.

Waffles buried under a cloud of whipped cream and fresh berries.

Et voila... tarte tatine. Sweet-savory, caramel-y tarte tatin. For breakfast. Pourquoi pas??

Not that there weren't other amazing little baked bits to choose from...

But I guess I need something new to try the next time I go back.

The brute had some softness

2012-01-25T08:29:00.000-05:00

"There are only two places in the world where we can live happy: at home and in Paris."
–Ernest Hemingway

Let’s hear it for books!

2012-01-22T21:43:00.002-05:00

I obviously have books on the brain as of late. Paris, My Sweet (Sourcebooks) comes out in a mere 10 days. I’ve also been eating up Adam Gopnik’s The Table Comes First, am getting ready to dive into Jeffrey Eugenides’s The Marriage Plot, have been delighting in the U.S. printed version of Paris Versus New York and am anxiously awaiting some upcoming releases including The Little Paris Kitchen, Paris in Color, Apron Anxiety and Mastering the Art of French Eating. What can I say? I’m a book girl.

Naturally, I fell for this video when I discovered it (while reading a nice review of Paris, My Sweet on The Novel World). I just love the idea that books are alive. And that they have the power to make us feel alive.

What was the last book you read that made you feel alive?

10 easy reasons to love Paris

2012-01-19T07:33:00.011-05:00

My Vegan Mondays

2012-01-16T22:17:00.004-05:00

I'm still swooning over The Artist. And feeling plump and happy from my Manhattans at Monkey Bar, spaghetti puttanesca at Mario's Ballato, strawberry cupcake from Little Cupcake Bakeshop, and chai latte that went perfectly an apple bran muffin at Think Coffee. Indulging is what weekends are for, n'est-ce pas?? Just as Vegan Mondays are for rebooting.

Morning
Coffee with soy milk
Oatmeal with goji berries
An organic Fuji apple

Afternoon
Lentil soup
Some strawberry suckers

Evening
Ahhh... one of my favorite things about winter: the carrot-ginger soup I make. Miraculously rich and creamy without a lick of dairy.
Chocolate

Some nights are just… perfect

2012-01-14T11:28:00.004-05:00

It can happen. When you go to one of your favorite places in the city (the balcony of the Paris Theater).

And see the best movie you’ve seen all year (The Artist—go now).

And then go somewhere you’ve always wanted (Monkey Bar), with someone whom you adore (Mr. B) and it’s even better than you hoped.

Cool, clubby and old-school New York. But not a drip of attitude or pretension.

Gorgeous cocktails. Friendly bartenders. Corn fritters with thyme honey.

Catching up with a good friend and looking forward to a whole new year…

It was the perfect night in New York City.

Still a sucker for Louis

2012-01-13T12:07:00.001-05:00

I had an excuse to go to midtown last weekend (actually, two excuses: a visiting bff and the makeup counters at bg).

I popped into Bendel’s and taunted myself at Smythson. And naturally, I had to cruise the windows at Louis Vuitton.

Trop amusant!

Wouldn’t it be fun to be a window dresser?

What do you say, Simon?

Number 9!

2012-01-11T20:51:00.004-05:00

Back in the summer of 2008, I was astonished when the New York Times accepted my pitch for a Velib spree through Paris that targeted the city's best chocolatiers. Then the Tour du Chocolat went on to become a Top 10 travel story for the year.

This morning I found out it happened again: A Paris Farewell came in at Number 9 on the list of top travel articles for 2011. Hooray!

I couldn't be happier—not only for the insane honor, but because that piece was indeed a love letter to Paris. I loved researching and writing it, I loved sharing it and hearing all the wonderful responses, and I still love all the memories I carry with me as a result. Especially since I've been missing Paris like mad lately. (Paris, je t'aime. Encore et toujours.)

Long live the king!

2012-01-10T23:50:00.007-05:00

If it pained me to miss the Christmas lights in Paris last month, it’s killing me to miss the galettes des rois this month.

Friday was the Day of Epiphany, a religious celebration of Christ being visited by the Three Kings on the Twelfth Night. The French, appropriately, celebrate with pastry.

The galette des rois is a relatively simple cake of two golden, flaky puff pastry shells filled with frangipane (almond paste). Maybe a little egg and sugar brushed on, maybe some crème fraiche or Grand Marnier mixed in. It depends on the recipe, and the baker.

But I’m quite certain all versions are delicious.

My Vegan Mondays

2012-01-09T22:24:00.004-05:00

I'm not gonna lie. I've been horrible with Vegan Mondays lately. It's not that I haven't had the occasional day of veganism. But with the holidays, I never knew what day it was. And, admittedly, a couple times I just didn't want to not eat cheese or cake.

But I'm back on track. I refrained from cookies and macarons at the office today. I had a Vegan Sunday yesterday. And maybe I'll even do a Vegan Tuesday tomorrow. Pourquoi pas? Sometimes penance can actually be delicious.

Morning
Coffee with soy milk
Oaty granola bar

Afternoon
One of those funky soy sandwiches you get from the health food store—strange... and strangely satisfying
Chewy granola bar

Evening
Whole Foods salad bar including a kale waldorf mix, a barley salad and vegan tortellinis

Simon Doonan, the new David Sedaris

2012-01-07T11:47:00.000-05:00

"The macaron craze is the ne plus ultra of gay fooderie. I can't believe any red-blooded straight guy can even walk into a macaron shop. If you wanted to ruin a politician's career, just publish a picture of him shopping for macarons."
-Simon Doonan

Blanking on resolutions

2012-01-05T08:59:00.003-05:00

I'm normally really good at channeling my Oprah/hippie/new agey side. I love some serious introspection. I delight in self-help. I dig "sharing."

But for some reason, as 2011 slid into 2012, I wasn't coming up with any good resolutions like I normally would have. And now that we're five days into the New Year, instead of puzzling over what I should resolve to do, I've decided to ponder something else; something more optimistic and imaginative. And I want you to do the same...

What are you most looking forward to in 2012?

Music, cha cha cha

2012-01-04T08:44:00.002-05:00

It’s been some time since I shared a playlist, mostly because it’s been a long time since I’ve been inspired by music in general or a new band in particular. But over the holidays, I’ve been listening more closely, paying attention to band names (The War on Drugs, love), talking to people about songs (Murder on the Dance Floor, awesome) and shows (Nada Surf, taking on Europe bientot), and sort of loving my iTunes library again.

Dog Days Are Over – Florence and the Machine
Brothers – The War on Drugs
Nova Heart – The Spoons
Murder on the Dance Floor – Sophie Ellis Bexter
Urgent – Foreigner
This Must Be the Place – Talking Heads
Folds in Your Hands – Passion Pit
Soft Shock – Yeah Yeah Yeahs
Love Like a Sunset – Phoenix (God, I love Phoenix)
Submarine – The Drums
Repatriated – Handsome Furs
Ten-Twenty-Ten – Generationals
Say It Isn’t So – Hall & Oates
L.E.S. Artists – Santogold
Time Stands Still – Cut Copy
Swept Inside – Future Islands

10...9...8...

2011-12-29T17:03:00.002-05:00

Off to Aspen for some skiing, silliness and fine food—hooray!

Wherever you are, wherever you're spending New Year's Eve, here's to a 2012 filled with adventure, love, peace, happiness, fulfillment and everything delicious. xo

Five weeks and counting

2011-12-27T08:58:00.006-05:00

If 2011 was all about writing my book, then peeking through the window of 2012 seems to be all about launching the sucker.

The cover's been designed and the advance copies have gone out.

Paris, My Sweet hits stores in just over five weeks. Soon thereafter, I'll start launch events, sweets smackdowns, readings and anything else required of me (after all, what better excuse to travel back to Paris?!).

If you haven't already joined me on Facebook or Twitter, well, what are you waiting for?! You know I can't get enough of you. In the meantime, I hope you're having a sweet and delicious holiday season.

Merry Christmas, mes amis!

2011-12-24T22:04:00.001-05:00

Thinking of you all, from Buenos Aires to Stockholm; Sydney to Seattle; and, of course in New York, Paris and everywhere in between. You’ve stuck with me through 2011 and I love you for it.

May the holidays bring you much joy and obscene amounts of chocolate.

It's been a good year

2011-12-21T22:36:00.003-05:00

Only 10 more days of 2011. Amazing, isn’t it?

When I think back to a year ago, well, I think I was still nursing a hangover from the Ogilvy/Paris holiday party. And getting ready to tear open gifts with my niece and nephew in London. I was starting to pack up nearly two years’ worth of memories and novelties of living in my Parisian treehouse. I was teary (probably about as much as I am writing this, remembering that amazing time in my life. Oh, bittersweetness). But so, so excited about moving home.

So 2011 was the year of my return. The first bitter, blustery months were cruel. New York didn’t welcome me with a warm embrace. I kept getting sick and felt more than a little bit adrift. Still, I was happy to be here.

And then things got better. And better. I spent so much time with my parents and friends. I got reacquainted with the city. I dated, saw movies, shopped at Whole Foods and enjoyed all the American pleasures I dreamed about in Paris.

Then summer brought great weather. More time with friends and family. Better health, and more comfort. Best of all, I was done with my book and had time to breathe and relax. Until I started my new job in September and life got crazy again.

All that is to say: 2011 was a pretty great year. Not an easy one, but really introspective, unique and rewarding. From amazing meals to major goals, here are some of the standouts and highlights.

Best movie
Beginners (feature)
Bill Cunningham New York (doc)
It was a crap year for movies as far as I’m concerned, but these little gems made me happy and believe in movie magic again. And Bill Cunningham? Only the most amazing person to take NYC—in a blue windbreaker, on two wheels—by storm…

Best book
Rules of Civility by Amor Towles
Comfort Me with Apples by Ruth Reichl
White Tiger by Aravind Adiga
Unlike movies, it was a super fulfilling year of reading. These three—with their language, characters and stories—made me simultaneously excited, jealous and content.

Best decision
Moving home
Taking the new job
Trying spin classes
The best decisions aren’t always the easiest. Of course I miss Paris. I’m also exhausted by the long days of my job. And about 22 minutes into a spin class, I want to do nothing more than dismount the bike and return to bed tout de suite. But that's what life is: succeeding at challenges, both epic and tiny. No regrets.

Best sweet
Lola’s ridiculously fudgy brownies
Cowgirl Bakery’s vegan brownies (RIP, snif)
I’ve obviously done my fair share of binging this year. It’s not easy to come up with what stood out the most. But, then again, it sort of is. The Lola’s brownies that I brought to a dinner party in Paris were nothing short of mind-blowing.

Best purchase
My mega LV bag. What can I say? It had to happen. I needed a memento of my time working on Vuitton, so I splurged on one of those ugly monogram satchels. And I love it.

Best trip
Both trips to Paris were awesome. I had a great time in Brussels and loved my weekend on Martha’s Vineyard. Going to London for a week of work was bonus. But my trip to San Francisco was pretty perfect.

Best challenge
Finishing my book
Doing the alkaline diet
Acclimating at this new job
Finding time and balance in life

Best meal
Sigh… Blue Hill at Stone Barns. It was the food, the service, the presentation and fulfilling the dream of going there. And it was with my very best friends on my birthday. It was heaven.

I also loved my meals at Buvette, Vinegar Hill and Sfoglia—while the food in Paris was untouchable, I’ve had many euphoric meals back here, stateside.

Et toi? What were your 2011 standouts??

City of Light

2011-12-19T07:28:00.008-05:00

Desperately missing the holiday lights of Paris this season...

From the city's epicenter, Notre Dame...

... to the sparkling Place Vendom...

...to the tip of the Eiffel Tower.

Long live Verjus!

2011-12-14T23:13:00.003-05:00

When I got into Hidden Kitchen last spring, I was blown away. Not only were the atmosphere and assembled dinner guests lovely, lively and fun (let’s face it, both things a crapshoot in the “private supper club” genre) but Braden’s cooking was to die for. And Laura, pairing the wines and serving the desserts, was equally impressive.

So when I heard they were opening a wine bar this fall, and then when friends told me they were going and I read early reviews, I was, in a word, jalouse.

Then I got a reality check from the dynamic duo. And my admiration for and belief in what they’re doing skyrocketed.

In the last month, a water heater cracked open and leaked. Carpenters stole money and left a bathroom unfinished. The city denied our license, then forced us to wait two additional weeks to serve wine. A neighbor threatened to call the police on us. French police visited twice, both times looking for free drinks. We broke off the door of a moving truck on the narrow driveway of a parking ramp. Our new carpenter covered two thirds of the outdoor tables of nearby restaurants in plaster dust during lunchtime service as he sawed down a wall. Our plumber turned the water off to all the buildings surrounding us as everyone was showering for work. And we had our laptop stolen.

This after everyone in their universe, wisely told them:

When the idea to open a restaurant was just a tiny flickering candle in the back of a very dark room, the advice we got from our parents, restaurant owners and dog walkers in the park was unanimous. DON'T DO IT! This was followed by a litany of reasons. France is anti-owner. The high cost of opening a company is only slightly less than the extremely high cost of closing a company. The euro is going to fail. France doesn't support small businesses. It's hard to hire anyone. It's impossible to fire anyone. You will lose all your friends. You will go broke. Your life will be over.

Well, thank goodness they didn’t listen. They followed their dreams. They listened to their hearts, their guts, and they took a risk. Forget the amazing food and support of local farmers. Ignore the appreciation they have for what they do an their belief in treating everyone—vendors, neighbors, clients, staff—with respect. That they, two American expats, with passion, talent and moxie, decided to plunge head first into French bureaucracy and defy all odds and expectations and succeed with elegance and panache and temptation to spare, well, it sort of makes me want to go back to Paris and see just what is possible when you put your mind (and heart) to it... (n'est-ce pas?)

My Vegan Mondays

2011-12-12T21:49:00.001-05:00

Needless to say, after the carnage in San Francisco (Bar Tartine, Tartine Bakery, Ho Wing’s General Store, Anthony’s Cookies, Specialty’s, Cocoa Bella, Christoper Elbow, Miette, Acme Bread, Mission Beach Café, Susie Cakes, The Plant, Ragazza, Delfina Pizzeria, Starbelly…) I needed to take a breather. A polite way to say, I needed a healthy purge. It's been two days back in NYC, and two days of vegan eating. Yesterday I had salads from Whole Foods and sidecars at Bemelmans Bar. Today was just a mellow Vegan Monday.

Morning
Coffee and cereal with soy milk

Afternoon
Whole wheat bagel with peanut butter
Banana
Apple
Naughty chex mix foisted on me by a colleague

Evening
Lentil soup
Pumpkin seeds
And just a wee bit of chocolate…

Institutions

2011-12-11T09:13:00.000-05:00

One of the many great things about San Francisco is that there has been so little turnover, the same classics still exist.

Gino and Carlo, where I used to drink beer and play pool at the ripe age of 22.

City Lights and Vesuvio, where I used to stalk Lawrence Ferlinghetti and channel Jack Keruoac’s ghost.

We used to drink cocktails and listen to opera at Tosca.

I never went inside the strip clubs on Broadway, but they—and Enrico’s and Tomasso’s and Café Trieste and Greens, all nearby—are still kicking.

I went to at least one wedding at the Fairmont and definitely had more than one tiki bowl at the Tonga Room.

I used to sit and brood over mochas and books of poetry for hours at this Royal Ground on Polk Street.

Mr. Bing’s, House of Nanking and Budda Bar all still happily (grubbily) exist.

The Bus Stop, Blondies, Bottom of the Hill, Ella’s, Dalva, Zuni, Cha Cha Cha, Real Foods, Tadich Grill… it’s so great to see all the signs—neon or California cool—that they’re still in existence.

Seriously?

2011-12-10T01:15:00.008-05:00

Magic.

Magic, magic.

I am so glad I got to hug a few fine trees on this visit.

And then chow down on bread pudding for breakfast. (Pourquoi pas? I’ve been on the vacation diet.)

(Besides, I told Mer I’d have some for her.)

I had to squeeze in an Anchor Steam at Vesuvio after inhaling deeply inside City Lights.

And load up on international chocolate from Fog City News.

Alex and I shared the epiphany of pairing triple-cream Brillat-Savarin cheese and 62% Scharffen Berger chocolate (holy miam)…

… along with port and sherry and gewuztraminer. (Although I think it was only intended to go with the sherry. In a more dignified way.)

My week is winding down. I’ve met three new amazing babies in the world and seen two impressive home renovations. I ferried north to Marin and trained south to Menlo Park. I saw my beloved green parrots, heard eucalyptus trees creaking in the wind, and rode one of the screeching street cars down Market Street. I got to watch Zack’s amazing movie and ride around the city with him like we did in the good old days. I’ve overspent and overeaten, and I couldn’t care less. I’ve had heart-to-hearts, laughed my head off, reminisced and caught up with my friends, whom I’m so happy and thankful to still have in my life. I’ve had so many fun and funny flashbacks and memories and have decided to come back in March to promote the book. I am fulfilled, restored, happy, happy.

A beauty and a classic

2011-12-08T10:39:00.001-05:00

Every night at the Cheese School of San Francisco should start with Manhattans at Bix.

Cypress trees

2011-12-07T11:38:00.007-05:00

They’re amongst my favorite.

So majestic and magical.

And so abundant in San Francisco.

An early morning stroll through the Presidio brought me up close (and under) the beauties.

Along with spectacular views.

Succulents, too.

So much inspiration and restoration, while the rest of the city woke up and got ready for another gorgeous day.

“Amy!”

2011-12-06T00:33:00.019-05:00

Talk about feeling like a rock star.

There I was this morning, walking across the Embarcadero on my way to the Ferry Building when I heard someone call my name.

I turned around, did a quick pass at the handful of people around, but didn’t recognize anyone. So I went on my merry way, to start ogling the cakes, breads, cheeses and chocolates at the glorious markets before hopping on the ferry to Marin.

But then I heard it again. “Amy??”

It was a fan. Of this here blog. I was floored. This lovely girl, Christine, recognized me from this blog! Hi, Christine! Thanks for making my day!

And then the day only got better. I bumped into another friend inside the ferry building, while I was drooling over the cupcakes, chocolates and macarons at Miette.

I did succumb to the gingerbread cupcake, before venturing over to Acme to pick up a doughy, sticky brioche from the genius breadmakers…

Then I watched them set up the cheese wheels at Cowgirl Creamery…

…and checked on the Dungeness crabs. After all, as Andi said, it’s crab season.

Then it was off to Marin to visit my girl, Alex.

Imagine if this was your commute every day.

How did I forget how flippin’ pretty San Francisco is??

It was a beautiful 35-minute ride through the bay.

And, as expected, Alex’s home is to-die-for: chic and modern and sweet and homey all at once. A girl after my own heart, this sweet spread...

...plus the eggnog-French press coffee she served up from her sunny Marin kitchen, was our breakfast.

And, this…

… our most adorable sidekick.

My company yesterday wasn’t so bad either.

Remember Connie and Nina? We walked all over Paris about a year and a half ago. But when I come to San Francisco, we almost always walk along the water. Yesterday’s glorious weather made it a no-brainer.

It was a bit too brisk for bathing suits, in my opinion, but a killer day nonetheless.

I’ve also been eating my face off at all the amazing restaurants, taking nice walks, doing a little shopping and yoga, and, well, just feeling happy. I think I’ve been so focused on Paris and New York for so long that I forgot about all the beauty and uniqueness of San Francisco. It’s definitely been one long walk down memory lane, filled with love and emotion for all of my friends here. And I’m loving every second of it.

City by the Bay

2011-12-04T14:10:00.010-05:00

In between New York and Paris there was this whole other wonderful chapter called San Francisco.

Seven years of Victorian flats, palm trees, green parrots and amazingly fresh food.

More significantly, seven years of true love, amazing friendships, and adventures far and near.

Now I’m back for a week of reconnecting, overindulging, reflecting and appreciating.

It’s sunny and warm. Nostalgic and special. Comfortable and divine.

I'm a lucky girl.

My dream…

2011-11-30T08:01:00.002-05:00

… mode of transportation.

That zippy Vespa has been on my mind. Once upon a time, in San Francisco, I really wanted a Vespa. I thought nothing would be cooler than cruising up the hills of North Beach and cutting through the fog in Golden Gate Park than a Beat chick on Italian wheels.

I still love scooters but no longer have the fantasy. And as much as I love vintage autos, the thought of owning a car again does not appeal (unless it was this collection - then I think I could deal). I think my dream mode of transportation would be:

a) A driver-on-call for getting around town at night, when I’m running late for work, and to and from the airport

b) Money to fly first or business class between New York and Paris (and beyond, bien sur)

c) A tricked out bicycle, complete with bell, helmet, safety laws and other bicyclists in the city who would make riding more the norm

Et toi?

My Vegan Mondays

2011-11-28T21:50:00.000-05:00

Just a boring (but productive) Monday during which all my belly wanted to do was continue the Thanksgiving rampage of eating, snacking and making repeat visits to the fridge but my snug pants reminded me to rein it in. I’m trying.

Morning
Coffee and cereal with soy milk

Afternoon
Curried cauliflower wrap (with brown rice and chickpeas)
Trail mix

Evening
Lentil soup
Apple

When I Was Young

2011-11-27T14:35:00.001-05:00

My friend Ben is awesome. Not only is he always game for something delicious—an almond croissant, say, here in NYC or at Boulangerie Julien in Paris—but he’s just a cool dude. Modest and low-key; fun and funny; a great wedding date and a friend for over two decades. And he’s also the manager of Nada Surf.

Here’s Matthew Caws performing "When I Was Young" at the Musée Carnavalet.

As Bennie said, It's tres beautiful.

I'm just saying...

2011-11-25T12:32:00.000-05:00

Christmas is fast approaching.

Santa, you can take your cues from the street of NYC and deliver a Vuitton-canvased Vespa, straight from the streets of Paris!

Pourquoi pas?

My Vegan Tuesdays

2011-11-22T22:02:00.001-05:00

Mes amis, I actually had a Vegan Sunday, Vegan Monday and Vegan Tuesday! Sunday was unintentionally so, Monday I stuck to protocol and today, I figured, well, I might as well go for a three-day spree seeing as the next few days at my mom’s is going to be nothing short of gluttonous.

I’ll be bringing Jacques Torres chocolates, and we’ll be making apple pie. We might even kick off some Christmas cookie baking. Turkey, brussels sprouts, cauliflower gratin and many, many other trimmings will be greedily eaten up.

What about you? What are your holiday plans? Be sure to have extra helpings pour moi, and don’t forget to count your blessings!

My dream...

2011-11-21T08:15:00.003-05:00

...living arrangement looks something like this:

A big airy loft in Tribeca. It's on a quiet street with a lot of light and even has a little outdoor space.

Two months of the year (say, January and July), I swap with someone in Paris. Ideally, in the 2eme, 9eme, 10eme or 6eme.

What's your dream living arrangement?

Vitrine magic

2011-11-19T13:11:00.004-05:00

I always love the vitrines in Paris. Moschino's salt and pepper rainstorm is no exception.

And back here in New York, Christian Louboutin's pompadours of red-heeled magic are no less charming.

French advertising (ahem)

2011-11-17T08:33:00.006-05:00

Those Frenchies. They have a way with words. They have a way with style. They can make chocolate and wine and cheese like nobody's business. They're graceful, sophisticated and oh-so-charming. So why is their advertising so atrocious??

I mean, not that there's anything wrong with silly little girls or monkeys picking through someone's mop of hair.

But, seriously? This is 2011?

I might be offended if it weren't so ridiculous.

What gets us through in life

2011-11-14T22:26:00.004-05:00

The best friends in the world. On a perfect autumn weekend.

The ballet. Champagne and cocktails. The Dutch—twice.

Karaoke. Shopping. A walk along the High Line. Sleeping in. Spontaneous dance parties. Peeing-our-pants-laughter. Crying on each other’s shoulders—and feeling almost healed by it.

A little MC Hammer and Michael Jackson. A little more wine and bananas foster French toast.

A weekend that couldn’t have been any better.

A must read

2011-11-09T08:54:00.000-05:00

The rest as they say,
is history. Crepes is coming with me to Hollywood.
She will compose
the music for my movie.
Our last day in Paris
we led the Dog Day Parade.
I read the poem I had written for this occasion:
In chic Paree
the chicest day
is when the dogs stroll down
the Champes Elysées.
Great danes romancing,
pink poodles prancing.
It’s swank
it’s grand
it’s pooch couture.
They saunter with style
about half a mile and end up at Maxims,
that most marvelous spot
for champagne and caviar
and a little whatnot.
A toast to life
A toast to love
Salut! Olé!
We’re off to L.A.!

My friend Sarah sent me the cutest card with this poem. Smitten as I was, I had to find out just who was Crepes, who was talking about Crepes, and who was prancing around Paree and going to Maxims! Turns out, it's Max. Max Stravinsky, the canine hero of Maira Kalman's adorable picture book, Ooh-La-La Max In Love (I like the title of my book, but dang, that's a good one!).

Has anyone read this? I think it's a must for all of our bookshelves...

My Vegan Mondays

2011-11-07T22:03:00.012-05:00

I did my Vegan Monday today but rather than bore you with the soy milk, roasted broccoli and couscous salad details, I will wax poetic about my meal at Blue Hill at Stone Barns yesterday.

I’ve wanted to go to Stone Barns forever. Different friends have been over the years and I knew it was a special place and experience. The whole premise of Dan Barber’s restaurant is that they grow and raise all the food that’s served there right on the farm—ye olde farm-to-table principle.

From turkeys and lambs…

…to herbs and veggies…

There’s also a market and casual café to score delicious goods, as well as a children’s camp and educational center.

And after all the years of yearning and hype, what can I say? The place did not disappoint.

It was a glorious autumn day, with pretty foliage brightening up the rolling hills and pastures.

I was with two of my best friends in the whole world. We drank wine in the middle of the afternoon. I was a happy girl.

The meal started with a flurry of playful amuses bouche.

Including beet burgers with shots of “V-9”…

… salisfy encrusted with sesame seeds…

… yukon potatoes with crispy sage, and a wee radish that you dragged through a decadent salted butter.

The first course was a lovely beet salad with mache, arugula, radish and greek yogurt….

…followed by a pistou soup holding a crusted egg.

The girls were treated to pork, while I got chicken.

And can we talk about how insanely delicious the bread and butter was??

(Yes, we must because it was some of the best bread of my life...)

Au finale, dessert: a perfect apple tart with ginger ice cream. My favorite course of the meal.

Though my birthday cake did steal the show and make my day.

If all food was grown and produced as it is at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, I wouldn't have to do Vegan Mondays.

Banner birthday weekend

2011-11-06T22:37:00.009-05:00

Friends.

Family.

Entertainment.

Gorgeous weather.

And a feast.

It was an amazing birthday weekend that went from Bathtub Gin to Blue Hills at Stone Barns; from Balthazar to Minetta Tavern; Priscilla Queen of the Desert to Soho strolling.

Every weekend should be so beautiful.

Snapshots around New York

2011-11-05T09:44:00.005-04:00

I’ve been working so much lately that I feel time and life are just whizzing by and I’m doing nothing interesting. But then when I think back on the past few weeks, I realize there are so many great things and moments that would only happen in New York.

Like the “psycho opera” Stop the Virgens at Saint Ann’s Warehouse. Add Karen O to my Chrissie Hynde and Debbie Harry rocker-chick girl crushes. She's just amazing and her voice makes my stomach flutter. And waiting to go in, we checked out this awesome structural sculpture with pulsating LED lights and electronic music.

And the perfect finale to the evening, we had a most fabulous dinner at Jack the Horse Tavern. Heaven.

(Speaking of sculptures, isn’t there something amazingly noble and artistic about this can collection?)

Then there was the freak snowstorm last Saturday. While the big, wet flakes downtown didn’t really accumulate, by the time I went uptown in the evening, there were piles of snow and puddles of slush. Still, there's something sort of fun in the chaos and messiness of storms in New York.

(Keihls! I’ll only have to be reminded of Christmas for the next 50 days!)

Whether it’s full or just a wee sliver, it’s always so romantic to look up at the NYC skyline and see the moon. Especially when there's some iconic building below it...

Paris, je t’aime. New York, I adore you, too.

Someone get this guy a book contract!

2011-11-02T23:01:00.002-04:00

A friend forwarded this to me last week, making me laugh out loud about six separate times. It was allegedly posted on craigslist. It is undeniably hilarious.

Yoga mat for sale. Used once at lunch hour class. Usage timeline as follows:

11:45a
Register for hot yoga class. Infinite wisdom tells me to commit to 5 class package and purchase a yoga mat. I pay $89.74. Money well spent, I smugly confirm to myself.

11:55a
Open door to yoga room. A gush of hot dry air rushes through and past me. It
smells of breath, sweat and hot. Take spot on floor in back of room next to
cute blonde. We will date.

11:57a
I feel the need to be as near to naked as possible. This is a problem because of the hot blonde to my left and our pending courtship. She will not be pleased to learn that I need to lose 30 pounds before I propose to her.

11:58a
The shirt and sweats have to come off. I throw caution to the wind and decide to rely on my wit and conditioning to overcome any weight issues my fiancée may take issue with. This will take a lot of wit and conditioning.

11:59a
Begin small talk with my bride to be. She pretends to ignore me but I know how she can be. I allow her to concentrate and stare straight ahead and continue to pretend that I don't exist. As we finish sharing our special moment, I am suddenly aware of a sweat moustache that has formed below my nose. This must be from the all the whispering between us.

12:00p
Instructor enters the room and ascends her special podium at the front of the room. She is a slight, agitated Chinese woman. She introduces me to the class and everyone turns around to greet me just as I decide to aggressively adjust my penis and testes packed in my Under Armor. My bride is notably unfazed.

12:02p
Since I do have experience with Hot Yoga (4 sessions just 5 short years ago) I fully consider that I may be so outstanding and skilled that my instructor may call me out and ask me to guide the class. My wife will look on with a sparkle in her eye. We will make love after class.

12:10p
It is now up to 95 degrees in the room. We have been practicing deep breathing exercises for the last 8 minutes. This would not be a problem if we were all breathing actual, you know, oxygen. Instead, we are breathing each other's body odor, expelled carbon dioxide and other unmentionables. (Don't worry, I'll mention them later.)

12:26p
It is now 100 degrees and I take notice of the humidity, which is hovering at about 90%. I feel the familiar adorning stare of my bride and decide to look back at her. She appears to be nauseated. I then realize that I forgot to brush my teeth prior to attending this class. We bond.

12:33p
It is now 110 degrees and 95% humidity. I am now balancing on one leg with the other leg crossed over the other. My arms are intertwined and I am squatting. The last time I was in this position was 44 years ago in the womb, but I'm in this for the long haul. My wife looks slightly weathered dripping sweat and her eyeliner is streaming down her face. Well, "for better or worse" is what we committed to so we press on.

12:40p
The overweight Hispanic man two spots over has sweat running down his legs. At least I think its sweat. He is holding every position and has not had a sip of water since we walked in. He is making me look bad and I hate him.

12:44p
I consider that if anyone in this room farted that we would all certainly perish.

12:52p
It is now 140 degrees and 100% humidity. I am covered from head to toe in
sweat. There is not a square millimeter on my body that is not slippery and sweaty. I am so slimy that I feel like a sea lion or a maybe sea eel. Not even a bear trap could hold me. The sweat is stinging my eyeballs and I can no longer see.

12:55p
This room stinks of asparagus, cloves, tuna and tacos. There is no food in the room. I realize that this is an amalgamation of the body odors of 30 people in a 140 degree room for the last 55 minutes. Seriously, enough with the asparagus, ok?

1:01p
140 degrees and 130% humidity. Look, bitch, I need my space here so don't get all pissy with me if I accidentally sprayed you with sweat as I flipped over. Seriously, is that where this relationship is going? Get over yourself. We need counseling and she needs to be medicated. Stat!

1:09p
150 degrees and cloudy. And hot. I can no longer move my limbs on my own. I have given up on attempting any of the commands this Chinese chick is yelling out at us. I will lay sedentary until the aid unit arrives. I will buy this building and then have it destroyed. I lose consciousness.

1:15p
I have a headache and my wife is being a selfish bitch. I can't really breathe. All I can think about is holding a cup worth of hot sand in my mouth. I cannot remember what an ice cube is and cannot remember what snow looks like. I consider that my only escape might be a crab walk across 15 bodies and then out of the room. I am paralyzed, and may never walk again so the whole crab walk thing is pretty much out.

1:17p
I cannot move at all and cannot reach my water. Is breathing voluntary or involuntary? If it's voluntary, I am screwed. I stopped participating in the class 20 minutes ago. Hey, lady! I paid for this frickin class, ok?! You work for me! Stop yelling at everyone and just tell us a story or something. It's like juice and cracker time, ok?

1:20p
It is now 165 degrees and moisture is dripping from the ceiling. The towel that I am laying on is no longer providing any wicking or drying properties. It is actually placing additional sweat on me as I touch it. My towel reeks. I cannot identify the smell but no way can it be from me. Did someone spray some stank on my towel or something?

1:30p
Torture session is over. I wish hateful things upon the instructor. She graciously allows us to stay and 'cool down' in the room. It is 175 degrees. Who cools down in 175 degrees? A Komodo Dragon? My wife has left the room. Probably to throw up.

1:34p
My opportunity to escape has arrived. I roll over to my stomach and press up to my knees. It is warmer as I rise up from ground level - probably by 15 degrees. So let's conservatively say it's 190. I muster my final energy and slowly rise. One foot in front of the other. One foot in front of the other. Towards the door. Towards the door.

1:37p
The temperature in the lobby is 72 degrees. Both nipples stiffen to diamond strength and my penis begins to retract into my abdomen from the 100 degree temp swing. I can once again breathe though so I am pleased. I spot my future ex wife in the lobby. We had such a good thing going but I know that no measure of counseling will be able to unravel the day's turmoil and mental scarring.

1:47p
Arrive at Emerald City Smoothie and proceed to order a 32 oz beverage. 402 calories, 0 fat and 14 grams of protein -- effectively negating any caloric burn or benefit from the last 90 minutes. I finish it in 3 minutes and spend the next 2 hours writing this memoir.

3:47p
Create Craigslist ad while burning final 2 grams of protein from Smoothie and before the "shakes" consume my body.

4:29p
Note to self - check car for missing wet yoga towel in am.

Louis, Louis

2011-10-30T08:29:00.008-04:00

It was supposed to happen in January. And then, March. Then June... September... October 15... Finally, the louisvuitton.com site that we pitched and toiled on forever is live!

There were many long hours, much drama and even some fun that went into this. My last big contribution was the shoot for the Icon films last November. Although I haven't personally touched this since 2010, it's exciting to finally see it live.

Franco File Friday

2011-10-28T09:12:00.006-04:00

When I was in Paris in September I asked mon amie Lindsey to take some headshots of me for my book. Because not only is she a kickass writer and a to-die-for baker (you haven't had brownies until you've had Lola's brownies, trust me), she's also an amazing photographer.

It was a spectacular evening with gorgeous light. Unfortunately, it was also at the tail-end of my two-week chocolate and pastry binge. I was suffering from sugar bloat, as if I were storing all those macarons and pralines I had annihilated in my cheeks. I know. We’re our own worst critics. But only Lindsey could have salvaged the situation and captured some fab photos. While I tried mimicking some moves of a seven-foot-tall model, also getting her pictures taken on the Ile Saint Louis…

…this is the one we’re going with for the book:

I love it. It’s the perfect shot for the book. But I especially love the photo we picked for her super sweet and generous Franco File post of me this week. I feel like Lindsey really captured “me” and I’m honored to be featured on her blog.

Thank you, Lindsey! Merci, merci! xo

With fond memories...

2011-10-27T08:00:00.006-04:00

It was only six weeks ago that I was in Paris. Indulging and smiling like crazy.

(Wouldn't you, with a half dozen Pierre Hermé boutiques to choose from?)

More from New York, a bientot!

The week, in one big blur

2011-10-23T23:00:00.000-04:00

I worked. And wrote. And worked. And wrote. It was a grueling week, one of those what am I doing with my life? periods that includes tense shoulders, bleary eyes and a scary realization that time does indeed fly. It didn’t in the least bit resemble Carol G’s week, but there were highlights to be sure:

• I had lovely dinners at two of my favorite West Village restaurants: Joseph Leonard and Buvette. All I can say is, yum.
• Pretty walks to and from work through the village; in the morning, the sun made my backside tingly and warm.
• A visit to Whole Foods (yes, this really makes me happy).
• I got to yoga and spinning.
• And Friday night was absolutely brilliant, meeting Bennie and Merrill at St. Ann’s Warehouse in DUMBO for the Karen O “psycho opera,” Stop the Virgens. Extraordinary! Inspiring! Followed by dinner at Jack the Horse Tavern, also out of this world! The smoked trout salad there is officially one of my favorite dishes ever. Ever.
• Best of all, I finished my Belgian chocolate article! I’ll turn it in tomorrow and look forward to a week that’s at least a wee bit more relaxed.

I hope you have great weeks, too!

My Vegan Mondays

2011-10-17T22:33:00.002-04:00

Frugality in cooking has a long and powerful history and a pathetic present. With the exuberant abundance of the post-war half-century, many Americans forgot the lessons brought over from the old countries, honed during the rapid but harsh development of the 19th century, the lean years of the Depression, the rationing of the 1940s. Old-timers made soup from scraps, saw potatoes as a main course and considered three squares the pinnacle of good living.

Can you imagine? Now fast-food joints litter the eight-lane thoroughfares that rip through most cities and suburbs. If you want a pizza, you reach into the freezer or make a phone call; you get hungry, you pop something in the microwave, pull into the drive-thru, wait on a line. We have become accustomed not to real food but to “convenience,” one of the filthiest of modern catchwords, and to the ill health and waste associated with it. (Some estimate that 50 percent of all food produced in the U.S. is wasted, and that doesn’t include the junk that isn’t worth producing in the first place.)

I have re-read this post from Mark Bittman, not just because it espouses so many food ideals that I believe in, but because of many conversations I’ve had recently.

Food is political. It's worth getting worked up over. It's worth making conscious decisions about. I believe this more and more, especially reading after reading more of the excellent reportage and opinions of Bittman. In another article, he wrote:

Cooking changes lives in ways that eating never approaches. Cooking makes you care about nourishment, family meals, nutrition, pleasure, relaxation, skills, control, health, the environment, culture and the earth. And it leads your kids to care about these things too.

Why not make your Mondays vegan, too??

Morning
Green tea
Cereal with almond milk

Afternoon
Salad combo: roasted broccoli and leeks and chickpeas
Apple
Banana

Evening*
Veggies and hummus
Granola bar
Red wine

* Admittedly, a lame dinner. But the french fries and brussels sprouts AJ and I had last night at Joseph Leonard were vegan... that counts, right??

French word of the day: pompette

2011-10-15T22:23:00.000-04:00

Def: tipsy

What a fun word for that pitch-perfect feeling of being, not drunk, not snockered, but just a wee bit inebriated. Everything in the world is beautiful.

Sweet on Paris

2011-10-14T22:18:00.004-04:00

Did you see my HIP post on Ladurée's macarons here in New York?

Or my Parisian patisserie piece for National Geographic Traveler?

I think I need a new edible assignment, tout de suite!

My Vegan Mondays

2011-10-10T23:14:00.001-04:00

Give it up for me, mes amis! I exhibited otherworldly willpower tonight by eating at one of my favorite restaurants in the city, Joseph Leonard, and sticking vegan! Granted, I was there with my vegan friend, Craig, who made it not only easy, but fun, but still… the scallops looked really good...

Morning
Coffee and cereal with almond milk

Afternoon
Cannellini bean, avocado, roasted tomato and pumpkin seed salad from Amy’s Bread – dee-lish!
Roll
Granola bar

Dinner
A glass of red wine
Salad with caramelized shallots and roasted carrots, roasted brussels sprouts, “vegetable cakes” with bok choy and mushrooms, and hash browns*

*See? Easy, fun and delicious!

The decline of France

2011-10-09T16:47:00.008-04:00

There’s been much hand-wringing in recent years about France’s culinary and cultural standards falling. That Frenchies today eschew sit-down lunches at bistros for pre-made salads (or Quick burgers!) on the go. That boulangeries no longer bake from scratch but rather buy industrial dough. That things aren’t as civilized and food isn’t as fresh and la belle vie just isn’t as it used to be.

I never used to let it rustle me because everything is relative. Coming from New York, Paris was still packed with plenty of little holes in the wall where men in suits and little old ladies ate bifteaks and omelettes. Cafes and tabacs were always packed in the evening with everyone enjoying an apero before heading home to supper. Life was great and food was delicious as far as I was concerned.

But on my most recent stroll down rue Montorgueil, the alarm bells were ringing. When I lived there, sure, a couple fast-food joints opened. But mostly it was a glorious stretch of café life…

…beautiful fruits and veggies…

and les fleuristes et cavistes with charm and beauty.

This time? More fast food.

American imports.

And, yuck!, a nasty cheap shoe store—a frightful harbinger of things to come.

Here's to the artisanal boulangeries, indie cafes and free spirits winning out.

He was one of the rare ones

2011-10-06T20:46:00.010-04:00

"Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma — which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary."
—Steve Jobs

It was such a punch to the gut to hear the news about Steve Jobs. It seems everyone, everywhere felt the same way. So it was no surprise to see the TV crews and crowds set up outside the 14th Street Apple store this morning.

Nor to see the written notes and tributes that accumulated on the window throughout the day—sort of sweet that they were such low-tech sticky notes.

Autumn's must-have trend

2011-10-05T22:26:00.002-04:00

Leopard print!

My Vegan Mondays

2011-10-04T07:37:00.001-04:00

I posted a day late in order to keep my subtitle inquiry at the top of the blog and everyone’s attention (thank you for all the comments and opinions! And if you haven’t weighed in yet, just hop down below.)

But speaking of weighing in, the five pounds I lost earlier this summer on the alkaline diet stubbornly returned. I guess that’s what happens when you binge daily on pralines and pastries like I did in Brussels and Paris. So now, I’m dutifully eating better again. My stash of Mary and Pierre Marcolini is gone. Out with the bonbons, in with the apples! (Sigh. Doesn’t have such a lovely ring to it, does it?)

Morning
Coffee with soy milk
A mélange of Cheerios and Honey Nut Clusters with almond milk (god, I love cereal)

Afternoon
Smoked tempah wrap
Roasted broccoli
Nectarine
Apple

Evening
A couple glasses of champagne (out at a company event)
Hummus sandwich (back at the homefront)

I need your help!

2011-10-01T19:19:00.004-04:00

You may remember that the title for my book is:

Paris, My Sweet

And, the subtitle:

A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate)

But the publisher is on the fence about the subtitle, so we're exploring options. Which of these three speaks the loudest to you, and would seduce you to splurge on it versus (or at least in addition to) all the other candy-colored "foodoirs" displayed at your local bookstore?

Paris, My Sweet
A Love Letter Measured in Croissants, Chocolate and Macarons

Paris, My Sweet
A Love Letter in Madeleines, Chocolate and Croissants

Paris, My Sweet
A Year of Edible Explorations, Rich Moments and Delicious Discoveries in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate)

As always, thanks a gazillion for your delicious thoughts!

It’s a good weekend for cupcake camp

2011-09-30T21:21:00.003-04:00

Seventy-five degrees and sunny? Oh, to be in Paris this weekend… Sounds like good cupcake-eating weather, after all.

Cat Beurnier’s Cupcake Camp is back, this time at the adorable Le Comptoir Général in the 10eme. The deal is a bunch of professional and amateur bakers make dozens of cupcakes to be considered le meiux. Which means someone has to sample the goods. Many, many goods.

It’s not often you see Frenchies behaving like gluttons. To be crass, licking crumbs and going back for seconds and thirds. And fourths. But it happens. I witnessed it last year at the inaugural Cupcake Camp.

So I’m sad I won’t be there this year. To overindulge. To mingle with like-minded Sweet Freaks. And to contribute to a good cause—proceeds, after all, go to the Make a Wish Foundation.

Won’t you go for me?

Art in the streets of Paris

2011-09-28T08:22:00.006-04:00

I made it to the Musée Marmottan in Paris. But since the lines at the d’Orsay were too long for my impatient self, and the two times I tried to go to Musée de la Chase et de la Nature it was closed, I had to make do with the city’s street art. Which, this time, seemed a bit more poetic…

More large scale…

As silly as ever…

And sweet.

But, à la fin de la journée, classic Parisian street art.

The new job

2011-09-24T09:24:00.001-04:00

I talked to my mom and stepfather mid-week and this is what I told them about my new job: Holy. Shit.

I remember when I first moved to Paris and was really surprised at the late hours everyone kept. You were ultra conspicuous if you left the office before 7. And then when we pitched the Louis Vuitton relaunch and actually had crazy deadlines for the project (which, by the way, that web site is finally supposed to launch on October 16—finally, some of that work will see the light of day), sure, I worked weekends and long days.

But then, for the most part, my return to Ogilvy/New York was pretty cush. No crazy hours. No mountains of deadlines. A few busy spells, but I was pretty spoiled; not a lot of work (which worked perfectly with my June 1 manuscript deadline).

I knew that when I started Lipman on Monday, it was going to kick off a new phase in which I’d be buried in work. But I had no idea. This week was total culture shock.

The agency is on fire. There are tons of new business pitches and wins, which means, tons of writing to do. The projects, people and environment are fantastic. There are perks that make me really happy. But getting thrown a gazillion different projects and working 10-hour days is something you have to adjust to (or at least I do).

The most surprising part, though, is this new culture of being available 24/7. Skype IM, email, mobile… where have I been? Everyone else is so comfortable being totally available to anyone, at any hour. I am having a hard time embracing that. But I know I must.

It was a fast and furious, up and down week. But I am psyched. In fact, haven’t been this excited about or inspired by work in a long time. Well, since the days of spying on Marc Jacobs and writing about Louis Vuitton’s 1854 origins. This could be good.

Paris, City of Light

2011-09-23T08:44:00.005-04:00

I was obsessed with the sky on this last trip to Paris.

Every time I looked up, it was breathtaking.

Over the river…

…from terraces…

Just around random corners and hidden streets…

No wonder everything is so much more beautiful in Paris.

Last stroll

2011-09-20T22:20:00.007-04:00

My last couple days in Paris ended up being lazier than I expected. I didn’t get to the Zaha Hadid exhibit at l’Institut du Monde Arabe, or La Maison de la Chasse, nor rues Cler and Martyrs for old times’ sake. But I did have some lovely leisurely strolls (after catnaps in the sun).

Setting out in the 13eme…

… and velibing across town to the 7eme (hello, you).

The beautiful weather meant picnicking groups in front of Les Invalides.

And the Pont Alexandre III at dusk?

Come on!

Even walking away from it, it was impossible not to keep turning around...

...for just one last look…

My Vegan Mondays

2011-09-19T22:34:00.002-04:00

I’m back in repent mode, mes amis.

After my chocolate blitz through Brussels and my pastry binging in Paris, I returned to New York, a whole lot softer in the middle, prompting me to stock up on kale and apples, oats and bananas. I’ve been a good vegetable eater for 48 hours.

Morning
Green tea
Green juice

Afternoon
Smoked tempeh wrap with greens*
Apple**

Evening
Whole-wheat penne with pesto and roasted pine nuts and tomatoes
Dark chocolate from Mary (just a couple squares!)

* I started my new job today and am so excited for all the new lunch options. Today, I went to ’Swich. They make healthy, easy!

** I started my new job today and am super excited for the fully stocked kitchen! Seriously: giant bowls of bananas, apples, plums and peaches; canisters of cereal and snacks; refrigerators filled with Greek yogurt, Naked juices and god knows what other deliciousness. Good thing, too. I think I'll be spending a lot of hours there.

Friends and food

2011-09-17T04:33:00.010-04:00

One of my favorite adages (grace à Oprah) is that life is all about what you learn and who you love.

I would add that, in the City of Light and Dark Chocolate, it’s also about what you feel and what you eat.

When I am here, I feel the deepest pools of joy and bliss, unlike anywhere else. I feel so inexplicably moved that I get weepy. And if I’m not feeling hungry, it’s only because I’ve already eaten a pain au chocolate, raspberry crumble, Nutella crepe or any combination thereof.

On this past visit, I’ve also felt so happy to have friends to come back to. It used to be enough to just enjoy Paris. But now there’s this extra element of having friendships to return to. Each time, they grow deeper.

There were gatherings at friends’ homes and in public places…

Speaking of public places, Sarah and I enjoyed old friends along the canal and made new friends at vernissages (bonjour, Serge!).

In addition to my Septime bliss with Ann, Kasia and I dejeunered at the adorable Chez Nenesse in the Marais. Dessert was a chocolate and pear tart. Miam.

Michael and I shared three decadent courses—which ended with a soufflé pour moi—at one of my favorite restaurants, La Régalade Saint-Honoré.

Mel and I had salades Chinoise craquantes at Hotel du Nord, belly laughs at Crazy, Stupid Love and a feast at a friend’s house that ended with Comté and Lola’s brownies, which sent everyone over the moon.

And I got to see V and Amandine, two girls who made my Ogilvy/Paris office nothing short of kickass.

Obviously, I missed spending time with Jo. But next time, the trip to Stockholm will happen. As well, I hope, as many other happy meals and aperos in Paris.

Merci, mes amis!

The way lunch should be

2011-09-16T03:27:00.006-04:00

Rachel’s going. Mel’s going. Erica’s been and raved about it. The restaurant du jour? Septime.

Located in the 11eme, it’s slightly industrial, but more country-chic. It’s my kind of interior.

Look through the window, and there’s even a lovely little garden out back.

Ann and I met there for lunch and it was a great experience all around.

While I left Ann to her starter of raw beef, pretty as it was,

I lapped up every bite of my velouté of kohlrabi with poached egg. Super miam.

As was the plat:

There was a succulent piece of merlu hiding under those slightly roasted greens and cauliflower shavings. Dollops of anchovy paste decorated the plate, too—a titch salty but still a nice accent.

And au final, dessert:

A gorgeous plate with a bar of ganache with a beautiful cassis-basil sorbet and raspberries. The ganache should have been room temp, it was a bit hard, but what a mélange of flavors!

If I still lived here, Septime would definitely go on repeat-visit list.

One day we're gonna live in Paris

2011-09-15T16:54:00.000-04:00

One day we're gonna live in Paris
I promise, I'm on it
When I'm bringing in the money
I promise, I'm on it

I'm gonna take you out to club showcase
We're gonna live it up
I promise
Just hold on a little more

And every night we'll watch the stars
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us
And every night, the city lights
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us

One day we're gonna live in Paris
I promise, I'm on it
I'll find you that French boy
You'll find me that French girl
I promise, I'm on it

So go and pack your bags for the long haul
We're gonna lose ourselves
I promise
This time it's you and me for evermore

And every night we'll watch the stars
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us
And every night, the city lights
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us

And every night we'll watch the stars
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us
And every night, the city lights
They'll be out for us, they'll be out for us

(Have you listened to the Au Revoir Simone remix lately??)

American imports

2011-09-15T02:15:00.002-04:00

• Beef Jerky
• Nutz Over Chocolate Luna Bars
• Vanity Fair magazine
• Little Debby Nutty Bars
• Low sodium Planters Mixed Nuts
• Cherry Chapstick
• New York energy

When you live abroad, there are certain comforts, tastes and memories you miss from the States. So I’m all too happy to be a mule for my French and expats friends, who request certain (random and hilarious) goods, despite France's reputation having the best of everything.

When I lived here, I asked friends to bring me Great Lash mascara and when I returned to New York, it was Speculoos I begged for from Paris. What would you miss from each city?

Tres chic

2011-09-13T04:25:00.000-04:00

Tres French. I want.

Weekend wanderings

2011-09-12T05:01:00.015-04:00

My bonus weekend in Paris was spent doing what I do best: wandering, Velib’ing and eating.

I went from Le Pantheon in the 5eme…

…to the Eiffel Tower in the 7eme…

…to the chichi residential buildings of the 16eme.

Great bunches of dahlias (my favorite) pepper les fleuristes… and grow in Parc Monceau’s gardens.

It was brilliant sunshine on Saturday—it might as well have been July with the balmy temperatures and languid pace. Perfect for sitting at a café with une salade chevre chaud.

(Dog days, indeed.)

With the weather so nice, we—me, Sarah and Mario, plus a special guest appearance by Michael—wound up along the canal after a couple pots at Le Baron Rouge.

And then, Sunday: rain.

More rain.

And some more.

I got soaked. My feet squishing inside my Chucks, I had to hoof it back to the 13eme to change into dry clothes. Naturally, as soon as I arrived, the sun was out again.

So I ventured back outside, to the beatnick-y Butte-aux-Cailles (remember when I was there last time?? That was over two years ago!)

And finally, I fortified myself with poulet et frites. Not great. And yet perfect.

It’s the start of a new week. So much to see, do and eat.

Where were you on 9/11?

2011-09-11T07:08:00.001-04:00

It’s a question we’re all probably asking and responding to today. Every year, the date prompts discussion, reflection and sharing. But it does especially so today—10 years later. Ten whole years have passed. Beyond the remembered emotions and exchange of stories, this year we’re also reflecting on 10 years of life—what we’ve done, where we’ve been, who has come and gone, and also how the world around us has changed.

Even though I moved to New York in June of 2011, I was actually in Paris on 9/11. My then boyfriend and I had spent an entire day out and about, wandering around the city, eating, and taking in the sights. When we returned to the hotel that night, there were signs in the lobby and elevator with phone numbers for the American Embassy for guests from New York and Washington to call. We pondered what it meant—maybe there had been a big East Coast storm or something. We had been out all day and hadn’t heard a peep.

Then we got to our room, opened the door, and the TV was on. Strange. A bit eerie. We were starting to feel uncomfortable. What was going on?

We sat at the foot of the bed with the remote control, looking at images we couldn’t quite figure out: had there been some sort of strange dust or ash storm? A riot? What was going on? We flipped through the channels: more strange images, everything ragged and covered in soot; we passed through the hotel’s porn channels—I’ll never forget how jarring and incongruous those images were with the rest of them. It took a few minutes for us to start piecing together the story and grasp what was going on. An attack. No more World Trade Center. New York in turmoil. It was surreal; not yet sad or scary.

That came the next day. We called our families. Like other tourists and expats, we sought an Internet café to email friends back home. We needed to connect with our friends who worked downtown to make sure they were okay (thankfully, they were). We now understood the scope of the situation. And yet we were in this beautiful city called Paris.

The rest of our visit, now at an apartment on Boulevard Raspail, followed a pattern. We’d buy the Guardian and other British newspapers and spend every morning at Le Dome, pouring over them, drinking coffee, and digesting the unfathomable story as it unfolded. There was tenderness and camaraderie amongst everyone, shock and disbelief. Every day was the same but different.

I was supposed to fly on to Jerusalem for my brother’s wedding on the 21st. I decided to return to New York instead—I couldn’t bring myself to go further away from home than I already was, but I’ll never get over missing that wedding.

Ten years later, here I am in Paris again. It feels right somehow, Paris being in my heart and blood as much as New York.

I wish the world was a better place now than it was 10 years ago. While I don’t think it is, I’m still hopeful. There is peace and beauty and so much kindness and greatness to be had, felt and shared. Someday we’ll get there.

Awake in Paris

2011-09-10T05:19:00.006-04:00

I was supposed to wake up, after a long night of dancing with Jo, in Stockholm. But the European rail system, which I’ve always lauded and used as a comparison to mock America’s system, foiled my weekend plans. My train was canceled so I missed my flight and now, instead of catching up with my girl, sampling freshly baked bulle (buns), mazarin (cake) and kanelbullar (cinnamon rolls) and seeing the incredible Amy Cutler at the Magnus Karlsson Gallery this weekend, I am here, in Paris. I know there are worse fates, but I hate dashed plans.

I tried to motivate last night to go out but I couldn’t. Three and a half days of blitzing through Brussels’ chocolate scene actually exhausted me. Blimped me out. Made me weary, woozy and slow. So I took advantage of the terrace and sat with the herbs and flowers and finished Garlic and Sapphires while gazing across the city to Le Pantheon.

Then I slept for over 10 hours. And awoke to a beautiful sunny day. I’m going to see old friends and visit old haunts tonight. And enjoy another lucky day in Paris.

I came to Brussels to eat chocolate

2011-09-08T16:30:00.031-04:00

So I’ve been eating chocolate.

A lot of it.

An obscene amount of it, as a matter of fact.

And I’ve been learning about it, too. At the Chocolate Museum…

… and chocolate workshops…

(hey, who’s that goon in the hair net?!)...

…and from chocolatiers themselves.

To get from one chocolatier to another, I’ve been walking.

With this kind of consumption (for there have been other sweets, too)…

… I’ve had no choice. My jeans are rebelling as it is.

Plus, if I didn’t walk, I wouldn’t see the city’s fabulous architecture…

…and “street art”, which, here, takes on a sanctioned whole-building painting.

I wouldn't have gone to this lovely farmer's market...

and seen how the local Belgians like to spend their Wednesday nights.

(Drinking, near the market.)

It's been a lovely—albeit gluttonous and exhausting—sojourn in Brussels, but it's a good thing I'm leaving tomorrow. After just one more chocolate workshop. God help me.

My new obsession…

2011-09-06T17:28:00.023-04:00

Flemish art.

You heard me.

I went to the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Brussels this afternoon.

I didn’t think I was going to be so into it (the modern art museum, which is more my cup of tea, is undergoing renovations; aside from about 50 paintings from that collection, it’s just art from the 15th – 18th centuries... less my cup of tea). But I guess I need to school myself. I was fascinated. Couldn’t get enough.

Those painters—Pieter Bruegel, Jan Mostaert, Paul Delvaux—were so dark and twisted!

And there’s so much going on in every painting.

It was so fun to look at them from afar, and then get up close and examine all the individual scenes.

It’s like the Brothers Grimm. Where did they get that stuff??

What was going on inside their heads?

But let's be honest. My new obsession doesn't have anything on my normal obsession…

Chocolate…

Gobs and gobs of chocolate.

A day neither here nor there

2011-09-05T18:56:00.009-04:00

…and yet I was all over the place today.

Chalk it up to my being in a jet-lagged, comatose state after having not slept Saturday night, and then lying awake from 2 to 6 am last night (thank god I took your advice and got Ruth Reichl’s Garlic and Sapphires to read – I couldn’t have lasted the long night without it!). Or that it was Monday and that half the city is closed on Monday. Or that it was the first day of la rentrée. Whatever it was, I couldn’t get my groove today. It was still a good day, just a neither here nor there day.

It started with coffee and un pain chocolat. But don’t get jealous. The pain au chocolat wasn't any good.

Then I put on mon casque, hopped on a Velib (hel-lo, you), and took off. I was in the sixth arrondissement…

…I crossed over le Pont des Arts to the second and the first…

And when I had to admit I wasn’t going to find the sandwich I was looking for (Cojean, you better have le poulet Casear next week!), I walked back to the Left Bank through le Place de la Concorde.

It looks and feels very much like fall in Paris. Leaves are scattered on the ground, and the air is crisp, bright and cool.

I saw Carine Roitfeld outside the Crillon, but I wasn’t so crass as to snap her photo, even though she looked hot.

But later in the day when I saw the media camping outside DSK’s fancy Marais apartment (le chien returned to Paris just the other day), I did take a picture.

La Maison de la Chasse Nature, a museum that's been on my list for eons and I thought was finally going to get to see today, was closed, as were three other spots on my list. So I decided to call it quits and get ready for mon amie’s birthday party. And when I arrived, finally, it felt like I had my groove back.

Great food and wine. Lovely, fun friends. An adorable Parisian apartment.

Life should be so good.

Bonjour, ma belle

2011-09-04T14:08:00.006-04:00

Okay, Paris weather… not the best. When I landed this morning the ground was slick with rain and the skies, still grey. By the time I awoke from my two-hour power nap, it was brighter but no less cloudy. During the four hours Mel and I sat inside Hotel du Nord (that’s right, four beautiful hours with my girl, drinking wine and catching up, and we could have kept going…), the sun was shining brilliantly—unless you count the brief 5 o’clock downpour.

But when it was time to head back to “my” apartment in the 13eme in the evening, Paris was putting on a show…

… basking in sunlit glory.

And the view from my apartment…

Can I tell you how happy I am to be here?

Goodbye, Ogilvy

2011-09-02T18:45:00.002-04:00

C’est vrai. C’est triste. Today was my last day at Ogilvy. It’s time for a new chapter.

Ever since I came home in January, I’ve been thinking about what I want to do now. It seemed moving back to New York, after two dreamy (and challenging and life-changing) years in Paris, at the (over)ripe age of 38, was the right time for something fresh. Time to consciously set myself up for a new adventure, on a new path, and do it very deliberately and consciously.

Not to sound like an Oprah Wannabe (although you know I am), but I believe we are our own keys to happiness. You can’t wait for things to happen to you. If there’s something you want out of life—whether it’s moving to the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) or writing a book—you need figure out a way to get there (although the chance to move to Paris did just sort of landed in my lap, which leads to never-ending internal debates about control versus fate). Even if it takes years.

So I've thought lots about it and I’m going to a smaller ad agency. One that is more fashion-y and boutique-y. Lipman—the agency—is slick and independent and will have a start-up energy as we’re launching the digital department. It’s going to be intense but I’m excited. Plus, they’re right near Pastis, the High Line, Ten Thousand Things, my new hairdresser and Chelsea Market, and I can walk to work. Sweet!

Ogilvy gave me Paris, and I’ll forever be grateful for that (Ogilvy gave me Paris!!!). My five years there gave me so much more, too, including wonderful friendships and mentors. But now I’m excited to see what the next chapter brings.

Macarons or cupcakes?

2011-08-30T23:20:00.007-04:00

I mean, who isn't obsessed with Paris vs. New York??

It just so happens that Colette just launched an Vahram Muratyan exhibition, the witty artist behind the web site, to celebrate the upcoming launch of his book. And I got to profile it for The Moment. Even better, I get to see the exhibition next week! Paris, here I come...

In one week...

2011-08-29T22:39:00.003-04:00

...I will be in Paris!

I will actually be in my beloved city in six days. I leave in five. But in between this summer's crazy schedule, my recent trip to London, and life in New York City, it only dawned on me tonight that soon I will be able to exhale, indulge and feel the peace and inspiration that I only feel in Paris. I really can hardly wait.

The scene from New York

2011-08-28T14:14:00.003-04:00

We love our drama here in New York City. In anticipation of Hurricane Irene, everyone started boarding up their windows on Friday afternoon; clearing out supermarkets, entire shelves at a time; and most businesses, from Trader Joe’s to Bloomingdale’s to all the movie theaters, preemptively closed for business both Saturday and Sunday. (Hrmph. I was supposed to go see The Idiot Brother.)

Better safe than sorry, but needless to say the alarm bells were a bit much. By the time the storm reached the city, it was indeed a storm, downgraded from a hurricane. The rain started late in the day Saturday and was done by the time most New Yorkers woke up this morning. I went for a walk up to Central Park to see what was happening around town, post-Irene…

Fifth Avenue is flooded! Flooded with foreign tourists who have absolutely nowhere to go and nothing to do. The entire city, from museums and theaters to restaurants and boutiques to coffee shops and parks, remains closed. Such a bummer. Can you imagine traveling to the “city that never sleeps” only to be pretty well shut out for 48 hours??

Some retailers (Bergdorf) completely plywooded their windows. Others (Barneys) did nothing, leaving their expensive displays and pristine plate glass windows up to fate. Analyze as you will.

Besides midtown, where all the restless tourists are making the most of the day, the city is relatively quiet (it’s actually strange to be here without the crazy noise; the whole city hums as if there’s a giant engine cranking just below the surface—sort of magnificently eerie). Earlier in the day, the only people out were dog walkers and cops. But with nary a drop of precipitation since 10 a.m., people are now itching to be out and about. The bodegas and diners that were prescient and/or ambitious enough to open are doing a booming business, some with lines out the door.

The water and wind set off alarm bells, particularly up on Madison Avenue, and knocked down tree limbs—one blocked the entire street down here near Gramercy Park. But otherwise, despite lots of leaves and branches on the sidewalks, I’ve seen worse street flooding during ordinary rainstorms.

So it was a bit anticlimactic. But also, an awesome excuse to be antisocial and lazy. I severely dented my towering stack of September issues. I churned through six episodes of The House of Eliott (if only I had more on hand…). In addition to napping yesterday, I got a good night’s sleep last night. I made tea and toast, and soba noodles and edamame. I had bonbons and dried pineapple to snack on. And after scrubbing my apartment on Saturday, Irene generously power washed my windows during the night.

Now, if I’m really lucky, the office will remain closed tomorrow due to neighboring towns without power and, oh yeah, the MTA not operating.

I’d rather be…

2011-08-25T18:53:00.007-04:00

… eating pastries in Paris.

Wonderful, glorious French pastries.

Eclairs from Stohrer and Paris Brests from Jacques Genin…

… croissants from Boulangerie Julien and Eric Kayser…

The otherworldly Pralus praluline.

Oui...

.... I’d rather be eating pastries in Paris.

My Vegan Mondays… and Tuesday

2011-08-23T21:32:00.003-04:00

I did Vegan Monday. But I was too sick to blog last night. In fact, I caught a British bug on Saturday and was too sick and tired last night to watch the end of Down by Law, much less chronicle my boring day's worth of food. Or my trip home in Business Class (!). I’ve been fast asleep at 9 pm the past two nights but, when I awoke this morning at 6 am, I finished the movie. Genius, you are, Jim Jarmusch.)

Anyway. So I did Vegan Monday. And I did Vegan Tuesday. More by happenstance, but it’s worth mentioning, no? The point of Vegan Mondays is to remind everyone—including my own gluttonous, greedy ass—that resources are limited and cravings are not sustainable and that modest compromises and sacrifices really aren’t a big deal after all. Grilled salmon and blueberry muffins are as big of indulgences as double cheeseburgers and steak frites. Seriously. So, a simplified version of the past two days worth of eating:

Morning
Green tea
Kashi Go Lean Crunch with almond milk and blueberries*

* I need to just say here that cereal, along with sandwiches, is one of my all-time favorite foods. I could eat almost any variety, at any hour, and be sublimely blissed out. But Kashi Go Lean Crunch, especially when left to soak in milk for awhile, is so especially delicious. It tastes so much like Sugar Smacks that I have a hard time believing it’s good for you.

Afternoon
Salad
Apple
Banana

Evening
Hummus and crackers, toast and/or carrots

And now I'll leave my ranting to the stars above and shaking earth below and go to sleep early again. Bon nuit, mes amis.

Borough Market

2011-08-22T17:48:00.012-04:00

Visiting an outdoor market is one of my favorite things to do in a foreign city (after visiting the local bakeries and chocolatiers, bien sur). Before leaving London this weekend, I made it to Borough Market on the South Bank. Sure enough, this huge and historic market has it all.

Fish…

Veg…

And plenty of of sweets...

In fact, forget whoopie pies, macarons and cupcakes. Brownies are the most ubiquitous sweet in London...

Neighboring streets and alleys are also devoted to food.

Monmouth Coffee has the most insane following.

And then there’s the heavenly Neal’s Yard Dairy.

If only I'd had a picnic to pack or a dinner to cook, if only I wasn't coming off a week of straight gluttony, I might have taken one of everything.

The last commute

2011-08-20T04:27:00.013-04:00

Nothing could ever beat my commute to work in my early days in Paris.

But taking the river bus to Canary Wharf yesterday was a nice way to wrap up the week.

We departed not far from Westminster, Big Ben and the London Eye...

... saw lots of new building along the way.

Past to OXO Building, the Tate Modern and under the Millennium Bridge.

And the vibrant Tower Bridge.

(And then the day ended drinking with the locals and eating fish and chips. Bien sur.)

The gluttony continues

2011-08-18T18:18:00.012-04:00

Ah, London. It’s been a brilliant week so far. But today—despite chilly rain and traffic-clogged streets—has been the best day yet.

Each culture has its own style. Japan is austere and elegant. France is chic, whether it’s in the country or city. Scandinavian countries have their pure, refined design. What I love about English style is the mix of high and low; posh and kitsch; stellar quality and, well, crummy quality. Today’s lunch at The Parlour was the perfect representation of that.

A cool, lofty space filled with contrasting modern and country furniture and details.

Cheeky, playful displays of food.

And a fresh and yummy menu. My butternut squash and feta salad came enrobed in giant romaine lettuce leaves.

Which, voila…

...revealed the goodness inside.

Then Sally an I made sure we got out of work at a decent hour in order to make it to Bocca Di Lupo, sans reservations. We got to the Italian restaurant in Soho, which I had read about on Kimberley’s Redvisitor.com, just in time to score two seats at the bar. What followed were six plates of heaven.

Sardines—the freshest and most delicious of my life—and panzanella salad.

(The coil of meat was solely Sally's doing!)

Creamy smoked buffalo mozzarella.

Fried zucchini blossoms, stuffed with savory ricotta and anchovies.

And garfish—a new fish for me; similar to mackerel—bruschetta.

We had a carafe of beautiful chilled Blauburgunder. Divine olives. Fresh focaccia.

The staff was lovely and friendly. It was just an extraordinary meal.

Followed by a nightcap at Experimental.
Weeeee! My favorite Paris bar landed in London last fall and has exquisite cocktails, just as dangerously delicious as I remember.

Ah, London, you're growing on me…

Midweek in London

2011-08-17T18:27:00.010-04:00

Tuesday: 11 straight hours of work. Which required numbing ourselves afterward with a rich, decadent dinner at Asia de Cuba.

Today, a new day. Though it was also full, it wasn’t so bad: just a little over nine hours at the office, finished with a team dinner at the Wapping Project.

This restaurant, located inside an old hydraulic power plant built in 1890, is remote but casual and cool.

Moody candles and retro television sets adorn and decorate the old machinery.

We had a family style meal of chilled cucumber soup…

… roasted duck, carrots and mash (tres English, non?)

… and black pepper ice cream with the most perfect raspberries. Heaven.

But the best part of dinner was the Yohji Yamamoto installation, a satellite exhibition of the V&A exhibition that I wrote about months ago.

Through an unmarked door, we entered a dank room filled with water and one gondola.

A huge silk wedding dress with bamboo crinoline hung from the ceiling. The lighting and music were austere and atmospheric.

Expectations for tomorrow: more work, lots of rain and cool temperatures, another afternoon of too many Cadbury and Haribo treats, dinner in Soho, and hopefully some news from New York. Life is good.

Greetings from St. Martin’s Lane

2011-08-15T17:14:00.004-04:00

It was a relatively last-minute assignment, and it unexpectedly brought me to London. So, after a busy week in New York (finished the book—done with edits!; finished my apartment refinancing—done with paperwork!; baked Nutella brownies for my family reunion, which was this past weekend in Connecticut and which was brilliant… and said brownies, which I made from scratch, were pas mal!; plus a couple other significant meetings and accomplishments… future details about Belgian chocolate and macarons in America writing assignments to come), I boarded a redeye last night. I was asleep before takeoff and, miraculously, slept for pretty much the entire six-hour flight.

So waking up and going straight to work wasn’t too horrible. Especially since everyone in Ogilvy’s London office is so nice. Someone actually came by to welcome us with bags of sweets: gummies + Cadbury = fast friends and assured loyalty for the remainder of the week.

And then I got back to the hotel this evening and was welcomed with a handwritten note and a cupcake. Quel service!

And then Sally and I went to a lovely little French restaurant, Terroirs. The menu was French, the wine selection was French, and our waiter was French. So we got to relive our glory days in Paris, practice our paltry language skills, and eat lovely food: a pork chop for Sally...

...anchovies on toast pour moi...

plus a tuna, bean and tomato salad.

Looking forward to another day in London tomorrow!